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Post by jskowron on Apr 2, 2007 9:09:04 GMT -5
Hey AGMD (and others)
I've gotten to the point in my bamboo project where I'm ready to varnish the wraps. Kim- you gave me same info on what you use and in what percentages at the last club meeting. Any chance you could post that here? Advice from others also appreciated. the rod is finished with TruOil, and the wraps are brown and yellow silk, if that matters.
Thanks in advance,
Jeff
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Post by bscanman on Apr 2, 2007 9:44:09 GMT -5
Jeff, Others here have more experience than me, but I've been happy with the results I've gotten using McClosky's Spar. I cut it half & half with thinner for the first coat so it soaks in the thread nicely, 1/4 thinner 3/4 spar for the 2nd coat, then full strength spar for the final. Works best when the mixture is warm. I don't use color preserver so the silk does darken considerably after the varnish. Here's one I like-highland green tipped black over flamed cane.  Brian |
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Post by AgMD on Apr 2, 2007 18:11:16 GMT -5
Yup -- McClosky's Man -o- War is the stuff. 50/50 w/ turpentine for the first coats, and then about 10% turpentine for as many coats as you like. I apply with a dubbing needle, one drop at a time and work the first coats INTO the thread. You will not need to turn / rotate the rod for drying , for the first few coats and if the final coats are real thin even these MAY not need turning. Color preserver or not? As I was taught as a wee nipper, Run A Test Stupid or you will say R-A-T-S. Nice emerald green turns black and looks like electrical tape  Try some wraps on a dowel or pencil or something and see what the varnish does. When I use CP I usually use Aerogloss lacquer. Sold for model airplane use. Or you could use any one of the water based CP products made for rod building. Whichever I use I always thin 50/50 for the first coats. Distilled water or Aerogloss thinner as required. It is absolutely necessary that the CP penetrate and soak the thread totally, or you will get a blotchy uneven color. 2 or 3 coats thinned and 1 or 2 coats unthinned, is my usual method. M-O-W will run you about $18 per quart, which is insane if you only need 2 oz. If you can pick it up at the North Adams Airport, I'll give you some. Let me know -- PM me. AgMD |
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Post by yashuone on Apr 2, 2007 23:07:33 GMT -5
my apoogies for the off-topic comment but... that is a beautiful photo!
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Post by bscanman on Apr 4, 2007 15:25:18 GMT -5
Nice emerald green turns black and looks like electrical tape Hey AgMD, I resemble that remark  . I actually really like the way silk looks without the color preserver. I think it gives a deep, translucent, almost jewel-like finish to the wraps. The highland green with preserver is much too bright for me. To each his own I guess. I also like my nickel silver blued so it could be that I just have a dark personality...but I hope not  . yashuone-Thanks for the compliment on the pic, west branch of the Westfield a couple of years ago early in the season. Somewhere between Chester and Middlefield-if I remeber corretly lots of bugs, but not a trout to be found that day. |
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Post by AgMD on Apr 4, 2007 16:58:00 GMT -5
My one and only, an unfortunate , experience in varnish over green was a dark , flamed SB 24. I used YLI 221, which is a very dark , emerald green. Even with CP it goes seriously dark. W/o CP , and over a dark rod , it really did look like black electrical tape. I tried to ignore it , but there was nothing for it , it had to go. And in this way AgMD learned the value of Running A Test - Stupid , R-A-T-S. I was very low on the learning curve back then, Now I make much bigger mistakes.  AgMD |
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Post by jskowron on Apr 4, 2007 17:41:25 GMT -5
For my first rod "repair", I actually did use duct tape to wrap a loose guide! Being a purist, I colored the tape with a brown sharpie- the perfect match for Gudebrod 541.  the repair was on an 1969 Orvis Battenkill that I now plan to rewrap the correct way. The tape wrap wasn't pretty, but it was effective and durable and allowed me to use the inherited rod until I was able to afford to buy somnething new. It's kind of ironic that I was forced to use a very nice bamboo rod because it was all I could afford at the time! |
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Try some wraps on a dowel or pencil or something and see what the varnish does. When I use CP I usually use Aerogloss lacquer. Sold for model airplane use. Or you could use any one of the water based CP products made for rod building. Whichever I use I always thin 50/50 for the first coats. Distilled water or Aerogloss thinner as required. It is absolutely necessary that the CP penetrate and soak the thread totally, or you will get a blotchy uneven color. 2 or 3 coats thinned and 1 or 2 coats unthinned, is my usual method.
. I actually really like the way silk looks without the color preserver. I think it gives a deep, translucent, almost jewel-like finish to the wraps. The highland green with preserver is much too bright for me. To each his own I guess. I also like my nickel silver blued so it could be that I just have a dark personality...but I hope not 
.
the repair was on an 1969 Orvis Battenkill that I now plan to rewrap the correct way. The tape wrap wasn't pretty, but it was effective and durable and allowed me to use the inherited rod until I was able to afford to buy somnething new. It's kind of ironic that I was forced to use a very nice bamboo rod because it was all I could afford at the time!