|
|
Post by jskowron on Mar 20, 2007 9:18:13 GMT -5
It seems to me that I should fix the set in project rod before before refinishing, as the heat has the potential to damage the finish if not careful. Is this correct? Should it be done before or after stripping the old varnish?
As an aside, the Western Mass Regional Library System has a copy of Sinclair's Bamboo Restoration Handbook. It is kept at the regional headquarters in Whately, but can be delivered for pickup to you local library (as can any other book- there are actually quite a few good fly fishing/tying/rod resources available in the system).
Thanks for your help
|
|
|
|
Post by FlyManDan on Mar 20, 2007 17:42:57 GMT -5
I would wait to straighten the set until after the rod has been stripped down and before you begin to refinish the blank.
Dan
|
|
|
|
Post by AgMD on Mar 20, 2007 18:45:05 GMT -5
I confess, I don't get too worked up over sets if they are not too bad. I have found that unless the set is pronounced or unless the rod is really snakey, it really does not affect my casting, but then that may tell more about my casting than the effects of sets. Keeping things straight when I reset the ferrules bothers me more, and can be a bit tricky when resetting ferrules on a project rod. Sometimes the ferrules themselves are a bit bent.
Two cautions -- it does not need a lot of heat. It seems to be more important that the heat be gentle and have a chance to penetrate the cane. If it feels hot , it is too hot. I understand that it is possible to straighten a set w/ the varnish on , so you can guess how little heat really is needed.
Also do not try to take out a whole set in one go. Progressive incremental straightening with multiple heatings seems to be the way to go.
Traditionally an alcohol lamp was the weapon of choice, but today heat guns and even hair dryers are available and much easier to control.
AgMD
|
|
|
|
Post by FlyManDan on Mar 21, 2007 10:52:59 GMT -5
AgMD said it all. You can turn your wonderful rod into charcoal very easily so take your time with the heat and apply it spairingly. It does not take a whole lot to get the job done. If you are to reset the ferrules make sure you do it on a happy day when all is going well and you are not short tempered hahaha.
Dan
|
|
|
|
Post by jskowron on Mar 21, 2007 11:20:39 GMT -5
Knowing the limits to my temper, I'll probably enlist the help of my wife in fixing the set. Knowing the limits of my ability, I'll probably start with a hair dryer. It's been a while since I had to use one of those things (flesh doesn't need to be blow dried ;D), so she'll have to help me with that too. If all else fails, I have no problem fishing with a set in the pole. I'll just make up some story about the giant brook trout that put it there.
thanks,
jeff
|
|
|
|
Post by bscanman on Mar 21, 2007 14:46:46 GMT -5
Jeff, You should be able to fix the set with or without the varnish but heed the warnings about too much heat. Personally, I like to use a standard kitchen toaster (without the bread  to heat the area of the set and work it out. Just push down the toaster handle and rotate the rod above the rising heat. Brian |
|
|
|
Post by FlyManDan on Mar 21, 2007 20:21:17 GMT -5
The proper amount of heat that you are looking for is for the bamboo to be warm to the touch...if it is warmer then that then your blank stands the chance of delaminating and or being chared... a few seconds over a heat gun and then lightly flex the blank in the opposite direction of the set will do the trick. Stay away from the tea kettle way of fixing the blank and stick with dry heat. Fixing a set is not as scary as it sounds just take your time and you will do fine.
Dan
|
|
to heat the area of the set and work it out. Just push down the toaster handle and rotate the rod above the rising heat.