One Degree of Separation ?

[DanaC]

The topic of reels and spools got me to thinking - is there a point to having rods that throw one weight of difference? I mean, if you have a five weight, do you really need a four weight? Or a six? Don't get me wrong, if I had a lot more money I'd have a lot more rods, but for the working stiff or the beginner, what's the best way to build a good working selection of rods?

My feeling is that you're better off with rods that are two weights apart. Start with a four weight, add a six and a two, gives you more range for your money. Or start with a five, then add a three and maybe a seven.

Either way you're set for day-in day out trout fishing, big rivers, smaller streams, a wide range of fly sizes and fish species.

Dana

[Uplander]

I think it depends upon what you’re fishing for, and the kinds of places you fish for them.

For example, I fish exclusively for brook trout in small mountain streams. A long 6wt would be too big for those streams. So, I fish a shorter 3wt on the really small streams and a 5wt on the bigger streams and beaver ponds. I have a 4wt, but that’s bamboo, and I went with the “intermediate” wt because I use it both on really small streams and the bigger streams and beaver ponds.

All my rods are under 8 t in length. Any longer is a nightmare on those small streams with thick forest on all sides.

[strbender]

I do think you can get carried away if your not careful. I know someone who has 17 fly rods! yup, 17. And he can justify using all of them. They are for FW & SW. It doesn't hurt that he works in a fly shop.

[ctroy36]

My question about rods, reels and lines wasn't asked because I have tons of gear. I didn't set out to have five rods, it just happened that way over 50-plus years. I was just looking for the easiest way to switch line and rod combos.

I have been using only 4- and 6-weight lines for all of them except my old Montague bamboo, which I'm refinishing. I use the 4-weight on both the 3-and 4 weight rods and the 6 on both the 5 and 6-weight rods. This works out just fine. A professional fly caster might be able to tell the difference, but I can''t.

Like Uplander, which rod I use depends on where I'm fishing.

[Mark Patenaude]

As already said, it depends on what the application is. Here is my thinking based on what I own:

I use an 8', 3wt. (medium) action Loomis "Metolius" that casts "very soft" which I use when I'm fishing dries exclusively. It hard to "drive" the fly into a head-wind with this rod but it will land a dry like a feather. This is the only non-fast action rod I own and has a great feel. I have a very tight casting stroke which is why I own faster rods. When I throw about 50' of line with this rod I feel like I have time to light a cigar and take a sip of coffee while I'm waiting for the line to straighten out on the back cast... I can only imagine what its like for you guys who fish boo'. I've have only cast bamboo one time and it was a rod that my good friend's wife bought him on Ebay. The rod was really heavy and didn't feel like it balanced well. It was a piece of sh-it to throw and I didn't like it at all.

Speaking of bamboo - I was just given a "smallish" bamboo rod that looks like it was made many, many years ago. Any of you guys out there know your boo'? I could try to read the name on it and you can tell me where it came from and when...

I have a 7'6" 4 wt. Diamond Back VSR that is a good all purpose small stream rod for dries, nymphs and streamers. The fast action allows me to "flick" a shorter amount of line into and under tight spots. Sweet rod!!!

I use a 9'6", 5 wt. Sage XP for large river trout and smallmouth fishing. The longer length and faster action allows me to throw so pretty good sized streamers and large nymphs with a really tight loop.

I use a 8'6", 6 wt. Sage RPL+ strictly for smallmouth. The heavier wt. line allows for larger streamers and a quick fight for C&R'ing.

I have a 9', 8 wt., Sage RPL+ and a Loomis GL3 that I use for Salmon and Steelhead as well as for smallmouth when I want to throw big bushy flies like Dahlberg Divers, etc... Reels/drags are really not that important until you get above a 7 wt. rod. I have Bauer M3 on both of these rods. It's got one of the best drag systems I've used. I've stopped 20lb. Kings in their tracks. I remember landing a hugh female king around 30 lbs with the drag cranked down. The fish still took some line and when I finally landed (and released) her I pulled on the line just above the real and only managed to budge about 6" of line out. The only drawback to this reel is that it has a recessed drag knob on the handle side and I've gotten my knuckles cracked many time tightening it down when the brutes were making a run...

I have alway tried to fish each rod with the recommended line weight. My thoughts about "over-lining" the rod 1 or 2 line weights is needed if you are a marginal caster that will allow you to throw and keep more line in the air or if you are fishing large flies that would be difficult to turn over when fishing the rod you prefer with the matching line weight.

Sorry, sort of long winded there...

Mark

[DanaC]

Interesting answers, guys, thank you.

I'm sort of getting at the question of, how do you build a working fly rod 'arsenal'? An assortment that lets you fish the widest range of water with
a modest selection of rods and cash outlay.

Sure, you'll probably end up with 'too many' rods eventually, from a purely practical point of view. But if you were advising a beginner, or someone with one or two rods, on what to consider next, what's the logic?

Dana

[Uplander]

Logic? This is fly fishing for Pete's sake!

Honestly though, if I were advising a beginner, I'd start by telling him he needs to decide if he's gonna fish big rivers or small streams to start out. Can't buy the gear for both, unless you have a net income far in excess of mine....

[AgMD]

"Need" can be such an interesting word -- particularly when used with fishing equipment. I am convinced that on the basis of "need" I could ( and did for many years) get by with an 8 to 8 1/2 foot ballanced for a 6 wt DT. At least here in the NE. It will throw #22 tricos, and it will throw #6 streamers, even small bass cork poppers. With such a rod I have caught little brookies, bass and LL salmon. I would to use it for steelhead if I had the chance and though I have used it for king salmon -- well that was just dumb. My point is that such a rod can be used for nearly everything you might want in this part of the country. But if you really like fishing with small dries, and in low clear water a 4 or 5 weight is really better -- so you "need" to get one of them , maybe a 4 and a 5. Big heavy streamers buggers and the like definatly handle with a 7 or 8 weight, and so I really "need " one of them too. I really like fishing old fashoned wets and nymphs, and have found that a softer action in a longer rod just works better. So I "need" one of them too. Then there are the times that I have come upon a deal that was too good to pass up, and even though it did sort of duplicate a rod(s) I already had --- hey at that price how can I say no?
Right now I have a fist full of rods, some nice, some beasts, but I don't have a 4 weight. Guess I need one of them.
AgMD

[jlibs]

Greetings from my trip in South Africa. This is interesting to read. I agree and can relate to all of it.

As mentioned, the type of water and species of fish targeted must be determined. I recall torturing myself wit research when I first started. I tried and tried to figure out how I could get away with just one rod in my quiver. It's not possible.

I like a 9' 5-weight for all around Berkshire fishing (if I had to choose just one fresh water rod), and I like a 9' 9-weight for all around saltwater and salmon fishing.

Yes, sometimes I'm over powered for the small schoolie stripers, and sometimes I'm over powered for the small brookies, but these are two all-around "middle of the pack" weights (for me) that serve well. Once the arsenal of rods is ready to be built, then, like I did, the 7'6" full flex 2-weight for the tiny streams can be acquired, and at some point, the spey rods, and everything in between can be purchased.

Until then, it's difficult to walk in the woods with a 9' rod, but it's good for high sticking and a lot of other generally good techniques too. I'd keep it simple and be versatile.

I hope this helps. I learned from reading the previous writers posts too. Thanks everyone.

JLIBS